When curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.
The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the family utterly shocked.
“I am utterly shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest place securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.
This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.
In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.
The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.
The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.
Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.
“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.
This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.
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